How to Grow Flowers from Bulbs: A Complete Seasonal Calendar

Posted on by Yagor Yakovlesku
23 min read

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In 1637, a single tulip bulb in the Netherlands sold for the price of a canal house. That’s not a metaphor — it literally happened. Tulip mania gripped Dutch society so fiercely that bulbs became currency, speculative assets, and objects of obsession. While the market eventually crashed, the love affair with bulb-grown flowers never did. Centuries later, gardeners across the United States still feel that same electric anticipation when they press a papery bulb into cool autumn soil, trusting it to deliver extraordinary beauty months down the line. A well-planned growing flowers bulbs calendar is your roadmap to that beauty — from the first crocus poking through late-winter snow to the last dahlia blazing in October.

Bulb gardening rewards patience, planning, and a little botanical curiosity. This guide covers everything: which bulbs to grow, when to plant them based on your USDA hardiness zone, how to care for them through each season, and how to keep the cycle going year after year sustainably. Whether you’re designing a cutting garden, filling a front border, or sending homegrown flowers to someone you love, this calendar gives you the confidence to make it happen.

Understanding Bulbs: What You’re Actually Planting

Before committing to a planting schedule, it helps to understand what a bulb actually is — and what it isn’t. The term “bulb” gets used loosely to describe several different underground storage structures, and conflating them leads to real planting mistakes.

True Bulbs vs. Corms, Tubers, and Rhizomes

A true bulb is a compressed underground stem surrounded by fleshy scales that store nutrients. Slice a daffodil bulb in half and you’ll see the embryonic flower already formed inside — it’s a self-contained growth package. Examples include tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, alliums, and lilies.

A corm looks similar but is solid throughout, with no visible layers. Crocus and gladiolus grow from corms. Each corm produces a new corm (and sometimes several smaller “cormels”) after blooming, so your original planting multiplies over time.

Tubers are swollen stems or roots without a basal plate. Dahlias and tuberous begonias fall into this category. They store energy in a different structure but follow similar planting logic.

Rhizomes are horizontal underground stems — bearded irises are the classic example. They spread laterally and need to be partially exposed at the soil surface, unlike most bulbs that want to be buried.

The practical takeaway: when someone sells you a “bulb,” check what you’re actually buying. Planting depth, spacing, and timing vary significantly between these types, and the difference between 3 inches deep and 6 inches deep can mean the difference between blooms and rot.

Hardy Bulbs vs. Tender Bulbs

This is the single most important classification for planning your growing flowers bulbs calendar. Hardy bulbs — tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinths — require a cold dormancy period (typically 12 to 16 weeks at temperatures below 45°F) to bloom. They’re planted in fall and left in the ground through winter in USDA Zones 3–7.

Tender bulbs — dahlias, cannas, gladiolus, caladiums — are killed or damaged by frost. In Zones 8 and above, many can stay in the ground year-round. In Zones 3–7, they’re planted after the last frost date in spring and either left to die or dug up and stored before the ground freezes.

Knowing your USDA hardiness zone isn’t optional — it’s the foundation of every timing decision in this guide. You can find your zone at the USDA’s official plant hardiness zone map using your zip code.

The Seasonal Bulb Calendar: Month-by-Month Planting Guide

Think of bulb gardening as a relay race. One set of plants is always resting, one is growing, and one is blooming — if you plan it right. Here’s how that relay plays out across the calendar year, organized by the task at hand rather than just bloom time.

Fall (September–November): The Most Important Planting Window

Fall is when most of the magic gets set in motion. This is the primary planting season for spring-blooming hardy bulbs, and the timing precision matters more than most gardeners realize.

The ideal soil temperature for planting most spring bulbs is between 40°F and 50°F — cool enough that bulbs won’t begin sprouting prematurely, but not yet frozen. In Zone 6 (which includes cities like Philadelphia, St. Louis, and Portland, Oregon), this window typically falls between mid-October and mid-November. In Zone 4 (Minneapolis, Burlington), you’re looking at late September through October. In Zone 8 (Atlanta, Dallas), you may not reach those soil temperatures until December — and some gardeners in Zones 9–10 refrigerate their tulip bulbs for 8–10 weeks before planting.

What to plant in fall:

  • Tulips — Plant 6–8 inches deep, 4–6 inches apart. Later-blooming varieties like ‘Queen of Night’ and ‘Angelique’ tend to hold up better in warmer zones.
  • Daffodils (Narcissus) — Plant 6 inches deep, 6 inches apart. Virtually deer-proof and naturalizes beautifully. A single planting expands year after year.
  • Hyacinths — Plant 4–6 inches deep. Fragrance is strongest when planted in groups of 5 or more.
  • Alliums — Depth varies dramatically by variety: ‘Globemaster’ needs 8 inches, while smaller species alliums want only 3–4 inches. These are phenomenal for cutting gardens.
  • Crocus — Plant just 3–4 inches deep in mass plantings of 25+ for visual impact. They’re among the earliest bloomers, often appearing in late February or March.
  • Muscari (Grape Hyacinth) — Plant 3 inches deep. Naturalizes aggressively — a single bulb becomes a drift within 3–4 years.
  • Fritillaria — Underused and spectacular. ‘Persica’ and ‘Crown Imperial’ varieties reach 24–36 inches and double as cut flowers.

Fall planting tip: Bone meal or a dedicated bulb fertilizer (look for a 5-10-20 formulation) applied at planting time significantly improves root development and bloom quality. Work it into the bottom of the planting hole rather than the surface — that’s where the roots form.

Winter (December–February): Planning, Forcing, and Early Movement

Above ground, your fall-planted bulbs are dormant. Underground, they’re establishing root systems and beginning the hormonal processes that trigger spring flowering. Your job in winter is minimal maintenance and maximum planning.

This is the season to force bulbs indoors — a technique that tricks bulbs into blooming weeks ahead of their natural schedule. Hyacinths, paperwhites, amaryllis, and certain tulip varieties are all excellent candidates.

How to force hyacinths for late-winter blooms:

  1. Place pre-chilled hyacinth bulbs (available at most nurseries, or chill your own in the refrigerator for 10–12 weeks) in a forcing vase or shallow dish with the base just touching water.
  2. Keep in a cool, dark location (50–55°F) for 4–6 weeks until roots develop and shoots emerge 2–3 inches.
  3. Move to a bright, cool windowsill (60–65°F). Blooms appear in 3–4 weeks.
  4. Expect blooms within 6–8 weeks of starting the process.

Amaryllis is a winter star in its own right. Plant a bulb in a pot in November or December (bulb tip exposed, one-third above the soil surface) and you’ll have dramatic 18–24 inch blooms in 6–10 weeks. A single bulb can cost $8–$25 at retail, but it can be reflowered annually for a decade or more with proper summer care.

Winter is also the time to order bulbs for spring planting. The best dahlia tubers, lily bulbs, and gladiolus corms sell out early. Order from reputable specialty suppliers in January and February for the widest selection.

Spring (March–May): Spring Bulbs Blooming + Tender Bulbs Going In

Spring is the payoff season and the next planting season simultaneously. Your fall-planted bulbs begin performing, often starting with crocus in March, followed by early tulips and daffodils in April, and late-season alliums and tulips in May.

Once your last frost date passes — and not before — it’s time to plant tender bulbs. The USDA’s frost date maps give average last frost dates by location: Zone 6 averages April 15–30, Zone 7 averages March 15–April 15, Zone 8 averages February 15–March 15.

Spring tender bulb planting guide:

  • Dahlias — Plant tubers 4–6 inches deep after soil reaches 60°F. Space dinner-plate varieties 3 feet apart; smaller pompons can go 18–24 inches apart. Dahlias are the backbone of a summer cutting garden and will produce blooms from July through first frost.
  • Gladiolus — Plant corms 4–6 inches deep, pointed end up. For continuous blooms, stagger plantings every 2 weeks from late April through June. Each corm blooms once, so succession planting is essential.
  • Cannas — Plant rhizomes 3–4 inches deep after the soil warms to at least 60°F. Cannas are among the fastest-growing summer bulbs — expect foliage in 2–3 weeks and blooms in 8–12 weeks.
  • Caladiums — These are grown for foliage rather than flowers, but the tropical drama they bring to shade gardens is unmatched. Plant 2 inches deep in partial to full shade after soil reaches 65°F.
  • Lilies (Asiatic and Oriental) — Unlike tender bulbs, these hardy bulbs can go in either fall or spring. Spring planting delays blooming by a few weeks compared to fall planting, but it works well. Plant 6–8 inches deep.

While spring bulbs are blooming, resist the urge to cut back their foliage immediately after flowering. The leaves are manufacturing the energy that fuels next year’s bloom. Leave them until they yellow and die back naturally — typically 6 weeks after blooming.

Summer (June–August): Tending, Cutting, and Watching the Show

Summer is when the tender bulbs take over from their spring-blooming predecessors. Dahlias hit their stride in July and August. Gladiolus spikes — if you staggered your plantings — are cutting-ready from July onward. Cannas and caladiums are at their lush peak.

This is also high season for lily varieties. Asiatic lilies bloom in June and July, Oriental lilies (including the intensely fragrant ‘Stargazer’) peak in July and August, and Orienpet hybrids like ‘Black Beauty’ extend the season into September.

Summer maintenance essentials:

  • Watering: Most summer bulbs want 1 inch of water per week during active growth. Dahlias in particular are thirsty — expect to water 2–3 times per week in hot, dry weather.
  • Staking: Dinner-plate dahlias and tall gladiolus require staking. Install stakes at planting time to avoid damaging tubers later. Bamboo stakes work well for gladiolus; wire cages or tomato cages work for dahlias.
  • Deadheading: Remove spent dahlia flowers promptly. Dahlias that are allowed to set seed dramatically reduce their bloom output — deadheading keeps production high throughout the season.
  • Fertilizing: Feed dahlias with a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (like 5-10-10) once buds form. Excess nitrogen produces magnificent foliage and minimal flowers.

Summer is also the time to order fall-planting bulbs for the coming season. The best tulip varieties — especially rare parrot tulips, double-flowering types, and heirloom varieties — sell out by August at the best suppliers.

Late Summer to Fall (August–October): Harvesting, Digging, and Replanting

As temperatures drop and the first frost approaches, the tender bulb cycle closes. Dahlias, gladiolus corms, and canna rhizomes need to be dug, dried, and stored before the ground freezes — or they’ll rot or freeze-kill entirely in Zones 7 and below.

Digging and storing dahlias:

  1. After the first light frost blackens the foliage, cut stems to 4–6 inches and dig carefully — dahlia tubers extend 12 inches or more from the plant center.
  2. Shake off excess soil and let tubers air-dry for 24–48 hours in a frost-free location.
  3. Store in slightly damp vermiculite, peat moss, or wood shavings at 40–50°F. A basement or attached garage often works well. Check monthly for rot or desiccation.
  4. In spring, divide tubers before replanting — each division needs at least one “eye” (growth point) near the crown to sprout.

Meanwhile, fall is also when you’re replanting spring bulbs — the calendar comes full circle. This overlap is what makes late September and October the most intense weeks in the bulb gardener’s year.

Building Your Growing Flowers Bulbs Calendar: Zone-by-Zone Timing

Vague planting advice like “plant in fall” serves no one. Here’s a zone-specific breakdown so you can map actual calendar dates to your garden.

Zones 3–4 (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Vermont, Montana)

  • Fall bulb planting: September 1 – October 15 (before ground freezes)
  • Spring last frost: May 15 – June 1
  • Tender bulbs in ground: Late May – early June
  • Tender bulbs dug: September – early October
  • Notes: Mulch fall-planted bulbs with 3–4 inches of straw or shredded leaves after the ground freezes to moderate temperature swings.

Zones 5–6 (Ohio, Illinois, Pennsylvania, Colorado, Oregon coast)

  • Fall bulb planting: October 1 – November 15
  • Spring last frost: April 15 – May 15
  • Tender bulbs in ground: Early to mid-May
  • Tender bulbs dug: October – early November
  • Notes: This zone is ideal for daffodil naturalization — bulbs multiply reliably without intervention over 5–10 years.

Zones 7–8 (Virginia, Tennessee, Georgia, Texas, Pacific Northwest)

  • Fall bulb planting: November – December
  • Spring last frost: February 15 – March 15
  • Tender bulbs in ground: Late March – April
  • Tender bulbs: May overwinter in ground in Zone 8; dig in Zone 7 after frost
  • Notes: Pre-chill tulip bulbs in the refrigerator for 8–10 weeks if winter temperatures don’t reliably drop below 45°F. Keep bulbs away from ethylene-producing fruits like apples.

Zones 9–10 (Southern California, Florida, Southern Texas, Hawaii)

  • Fall “bulb” planting: December – January (after artificial pre-chilling)
  • Year-round tender bulbs: Dahlias, cannas, caladiums, and gladiolus can stay in the ground year-round
  • Notes: Many gardeners in these zones treat tulips as annuals — plant pre-chilled bulbs in December for spring blooms, then compost after. Dahlias and tropical bulbs are the real stars here.

Designing a Succession Planting Scheme for Continuous Blooms

The most common mistake in bulb gardening is planting one type of bulb and getting three weeks of flowers, then nothing. Succession planting — staggering bloom times through intentional variety selection and strategic layering — eliminates the gaps.

The Lasagna Method for Spring Bulbs

One of the most effective techniques for a packed cutting garden or border is layered planting, sometimes called the “lasagna method.” In a single bed, you can create 10–12 weeks of continuous spring color by layering three or four bulb types at different depths:

  1. Bottom layer (8–10 inches deep): Late-blooming tulips and large alliums — these bloom in May
  2. Middle layer (5–6 inches deep): Daffodils and mid-season tulips — April bloomers
  3. Upper layer (3–4 inches deep): Crocus, muscari, and small early tulips — March and early April bloomers

The bulbs at different depths don’t interfere with each other’s root systems, and they emerge at different times, creating a wave of color from a single planting footprint. A 4×4 foot bed using this method might contain 80–100 bulbs and bloom continuously for 10–12 weeks.

Matching Summer Bloomers to Fill the Gap

Spring bulbs finish in May. Summer tender bulbs don’t hit their stride until July. That 6-week gap is a real problem in a cutting garden. Bridge it with:

  • Peonies (planted as bare roots in fall, bloom June)
  • Bearded iris (rhizomes planted in late summer, bloom May–June)
  • Early Asiatic lilies (bloom June–July)
  • Ranunculus (in Zones 8+, plant corms in fall for spring blooms; in Zones 6–7, plant in early spring for early summer blooms)

Sustainability in the Bulb Garden

Growing your own flowers from bulbs is inherently more sustainable than buying cut flowers — the average imported cut flower travels 4,000 to 6,000 miles before it reaches a US florist, with a significant carbon footprint attached. A homegrown dahlia or daffodil is carbon-neutral by comparison.

But there are additional ways to make your bulb practice genuinely regenerative:

Choose Naturalizing Varieties

Naturalizing bulbs — varieties that multiply and return year after year without replanting — eliminate the annual purchase cycle entirely. Reliable naturalizers include daffodils (virtually all varieties), crocus species (especially Crocus tommasinianus), allium species, and Siberian squill (Scilla siberica). Plant them once and they expand into drifts over 5–10 years.

Avoid “forced” or “exhibition” tulip varieties for naturalization — they’re bred for maximum single-season display, not longevity. Species tulips like Tulipa sylvestris or T. tarda naturalize far better and return reliably for 5+ years.

Compost and Amend Naturally

Bulbs thrive in well-draining, organically rich soil. Adding 2–3 inches of compost to your planting area each fall improves drainage, feeds soil microbes, and reduces dependence on synthetic fertilizers. A basic compost pile fed with kitchen scraps and garden trimmings provides all the amendment most bulb beds need.

Save and Divide Your Own Bulbs

Dahlia tubers multiply every season — one tuber planted in May can produce 5–10 divisions by fall. Daffodil clumps double every 3–5 years. Muscari spreads almost too enthusiastically. Saving, dividing, and replanting your own stock reduces cost, reduces packaging waste from mail-order bulbs, and over time gives you locally adapted plants that perform better in your specific conditions.

Avoid Invasive Species

A few popular “bulbs” sold in the US are invasive in certain regions. Lesser celandine (Ficaria verna, sold as a bulb in some catalogs) is invasive in much of the eastern US. Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus) is invasive in wetland areas. Check your state’s invasive species list before planting unfamiliar species, especially in gardens near natural areas.

A Reader Story: From Bare Dirt to 200 Blooms

Sarah, a reader from Columbus, Ohio (Zone 6a), moved into a new construction home in August with a completely bare backyard. No lawn, no beds, no structure. Faced with the prospect of starting from scratch, she decided to use bulbs as her foundation planting strategy — partly for the cost efficiency, partly for the emotional reward.

In October, she planted 300 daffodil and tulip bulbs across three simple rectangular beds along her back fence — a total investment of about $90 in bulbs from a local farm store. She added a bag of bone meal ($12) and a bale of straw for mulching ($8). Total outlay: $110.

The following April, all three beds erupted in color. She cut flowers for her kitchen table every week for six weeks. Her neighbors asked where she’d bought the flowers. She said she grew them. She divided and replanted her daffodil clumps that fall, expanding to five beds. By year three, she had over 200 daffodil blooms from her original 150-bulb investment, without buying a single additional bulb.

The lesson isn’t just about money — it’s about compound returns. Bulbs that naturalize are a gift that multiplies. Starting with good quality stock in the right zone, planted at the right depth and time, is all it takes to set that cycle in motion.

Bulbs vs. Seeds: Choosing the Right Starting Point

One question that comes up constantly: should you grow flowers from bulbs or from seed? They’re not interchangeable, and the right answer depends on what you’re trying to achieve.

Bulbs win when:

  • You want guaranteed bloom quality. Tulip and dahlia bulbs produce flowers identical to the parent variety. Seeds from hybrid varieties often produce inferior or unpredictable offspring.
  • You want faster results. Most bulbs bloom in their first season — dahlias flower 8–10 weeks after planting, tulips bloom the spring after fall planting. Many perennial flowers started from seed take 2–3 years to reach blooming size.
  • You’re growing varieties that don’t produce viable seed (many double-flowering tulips and dahlias are sterile).

Seeds win when:

  • You want to grow a wide variety at low cost. A packet of zinnia seeds costs $3–$5 and produces 50–100 plants. The equivalent number of dahlia tubers would cost $100–$200.
  • You want to breed or select new varieties — a legitimate reason for experienced gardeners.
  • You’re growing annuals that naturally propagate by seed (sunflowers, cosmos, larkspur).

For a serious cutting garden, the answer is almost always both — bulbs for reliable, high-value blooms that are impossible to grow from seed (tulips, dahlias, alliums), and seeds for volume fillers like zinnias, cosmos, and statice.

Common Bulb Growing Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced gardeners run into the same handful of problems with bulbs. Most are preventable with a small adjustment.

Planting Too Shallow

The most widespread mistake. A tulip planted at 3 inches instead of 6–8 inches is vulnerable to temperature fluctuations, freeze-thaw cycles, and animals. Shallow bulbs also produce shorter stems and smaller flowers. When in doubt, err deeper — bulbs can push up from greater depth far better than they can survive the stress of shallow planting.

Planting in Waterlogged Soil

Bulbs rot in standing water. If your planting area holds water for more than 30 minutes after a heavy rain, either amend the soil with 3–4 inches of coarse grit or compost, or build a raised bed. A raised bed just 8–10 inches high provides sufficient drainage for virtually all bulb types.

Cutting Foliage Too Early

Those yellowing, messy leaves after tulip and daffodil bloom are photosynthesizing fuel for next year’s flowers. Cutting them before they’ve died back naturally — before they turn fully yellow or brown — significantly weakens the bulb. If the dying foliage bothers you aesthetically, plant it among emerging perennials (like hostas or daylilies) that expand to cover the fading bulb leaves by May.

Skipping the Pre-Chill in Warm Zones

In Zones 8–10, planting tulips without pre-chilling almost always results in weak, short-stemmed, or non-blooming plants. Six to ten weeks in the refrigerator (not the freezer) at 35–45°F is non-negotiable for reliable blooms in warm climates. Keep bulbs in a paper bag, away from ethylene-producing fruit.

Buying the Cheapest Bulbs Available

Bargain bin bulbs are often smaller, older, and less vigorous than premium stock. A “double nose” daffodil bulb — one that has two growth points — produces two flowering stems in its first year; a smaller single-nose bulb may take 2–3 years to reach the same output. The difference in cost between premium and bargain bulbs is often $0.50–$1.00 per bulb. Over a bed of 50 tulips, that’s a $25–$50 difference that pays for itself in the first season’s bloom quality.

Tools That Make Bulb Planting Easier

Planting 100 bulbs by hand with a trowel is tedious. The right tools make a full day’s work into an hour.

  • Bulb auger: A drill attachment that bores a perfect planting hole in seconds. At $20–$35, it pays for itself in the first planting session. Essential for anyone planting more than 50 bulbs at a time.
  • Long-handled bulb planter: A hollow tube with a foot-press design that pulls a plug of soil, drops the bulb, and replaces the plug. Works well in prepared, loose soil. Look for models with depth markings on the barrel.
  • Planting dibber: A pointed stake for making individual holes for smaller bulbs like crocus and muscari. A sharpened broom handle works equally well.
  • Soil thermometer: A $10–$15 investment that removes all guesswork from timing. Stick it 4 inches deep — that’s the temperature that matters for bulb planting decisions.

Where to Buy Quality Bulbs in the US

Not all bulb sources are created equal. Dutch-grown bulbs from specialty importers consistently outperform big-box store bulbs in size, vigor, and bloom quality.

Reliable specialty suppliers include Dutch Gardens, Longfield Gardens, Old House Gardens (specializing in heirloom varieties), and Brent and Becky’s Bulbs in Virginia. For dahlias specifically, Swan Island Dahlias in Oregon is widely considered the gold standard for US-grown tubers. Many of these suppliers offer size guarantees and will replace bulbs that fail to bloom.

Buying from US-grown dahlia tubers (rather than imported) also supports domestic agriculture and reduces the biosecurity risk associated with imported plant material — an increasingly relevant consideration given the USDA’s ongoing efforts to prevent the introduction of new plant pathogens.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to plant spring-blooming bulbs?

Plant spring-blooming bulbs (tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus) in fall when soil temperatures drop to 40–50°F. In most of the US, this falls between September and November, depending on your USDA hardiness zone. In Zones 3–4, plant by mid-October. In Zones 5–6, plant through mid-November. In Zones 7–8, wait until late November or December.

How deep should I plant flower bulbs?

A general rule is to plant bulbs at a depth two to three times their diameter. Specifically: tulips and daffodils go 6–8 inches deep, hyacinths 4–6 inches, crocus and muscari 3–4 inches, dahlias 4–6 inches, and gladiolus corms 4–6 inches. When in doubt, plant deeper rather than shallower — shallow planting increases failure risk.

Can I leave bulbs in the ground year-round?

Hardy bulbs (daffodils, crocus, alliums, most lilies) can stay in the ground year-round in Zones 4–8 and will return annually. Tender bulbs (dahlias, cannas, gladiolus) can stay in the ground year-round in Zones 8–10, but must be dug and stored before the ground freezes in Zones 3–7. Tulips are technically hardy but often perform better as annuals in Zones 8 and above.

Why didn’t my tulips come back the second year?

Several factors reduce tulip rebloom: cutting foliage before it dies back naturally (deprives the bulb of stored energy), planting shallow varieties in warm climates without adequate cold, or planting modern hybrid tulips that are bred for single-season performance rather than naturalization. For reliable reblooming, choose Darwin Hybrid tulips (the most reliable rebloomers), plant at 8 inches depth, allow foliage to die back completely, and fertilize with a bulb fertilizer in fall.

What bulbs bloom in summer?

Summer-blooming bulbs include dahlias (July–October), gladiolus (July–September, depending on planting date), Asiatic and Oriental lilies (June–September), cannas (July–October), and tuberous begonias (June–October). Plant these tender bulbs in spring after your last frost date for a continuous summer display that bridges the gap after spring bulbs finish.

Ready to Plan Your First Bulb Calendar?

The best time to start a growing flowers bulbs calendar is right now, regardless of the month. If it’s August, order your fall bulbs before the best varieties sell out. If it’s January, start forcing hyacinths and planning your spring planting layout. If it’s April, watch what’s blooming and take notes on gaps to fill next fall.

Bulb gardening has this rare quality of rewarding you precisely for the effort you put in months earlier — it’s an act of faith that always pays off. Mark your planting dates on an actual calendar. Note your soil temperatures. Record what bloomed, when, and how well. That record becomes the most valuable garden document you own.

Start with 50 bulbs in your first season. Get a feel for the timing, the soil prep, the joy of the first crocus in March. By year three, you’ll be the person neighbors ask about those flowers — and you’ll have more to share than you planted.

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